Architects, of course, concern ourselves with the exterior appearances of the buildings we touch. Owners, especially homeowners on the other hand, do not so much - they experience their buildings from the inside and their concerns reflect this.
As a result, I have witnessed a number of House Raise projects where the solution to light has been to duplicate the window arrangements that went into the original house. This often fails in terms of a pleasing exterior design, but it seems logical and it seems to provide the light necessary for the new spaces below. Here I am thinking of a project that creates a new unit below the existing one. If you are adding to the existing it is another story, of course. Then you might be changing a Kitchen into a Bedroom and the window needs change from the inside as well.
For now let's think of two more or less identical units stacked on top of each other. The original building is a raised floor, single story residence. The typical raised floor is about 2'-4' high. The proportions of such a building are quite different from a two story building with the first story a slab-on-grade (SoG). 90% of House Raise projects have a SoG first floor.
When one duplicates the window sizes and arrangements (along with floor plan duplications), one emphasizes the mass of the new structure. Most often, this is the opposite of what the neighbors, and the planning department, would like to see.
The solution is to deviate from the original plan a bit (or maybe a lot), changing the room arrangements slightly (or radically) and thereby creating a (much) more interesting exterior, with the windows as well as the entries, certain corners and any exterior stairs that may be necessary. Oh - and decks. Two decks above one another looks fine, but when they are offset or are on different sides they add a dynamic feel to the architecture that is often overlooked by the amateur designer or homeowner.
The value in these details tends to be played down by financiers and real estate agents, who lean toward square foot considerations over design. And perhaps this value is more intangible to the untrained eye. However, even the untrained person can sense the difference, without being able to express what it is exactly. I heard from one of my clients who owned a rental property we remodeled and added onto, that he never had to advertise for new renters. This was of great value to him, but intangible to his real estate agent.
If you are a homeowner with the intent to design your own Building Beneath project, it would still behoove you to consult with an architect or an experienced designer before getting too far along. Of course, many homeowners are anxious about getting involved with an architect because of fears that s/he will take these missives too far and design beyond the budget. Regardless, it is best to get beyond these fears and anxieties, if even for only one or two consultations, before you get attached to something that can be much better with relatively minor suggestions.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Entries - more
Aspects of Entries can probably go on for a few more posts, but I intend to make this the last - just a quickie regarding front entries with nice porches. Sometimes your nice front porch gets overshadowed by the lengthened stair and resulting weird proportions, after raising a house. A simple solution is to make the entry at the ground level and make the porch into a balcony.
This is what we plan to do on 62nd Street. The Delaney House there has a very nice porch, with simple columns and Victorian detailing at the eaves of a substantial looking roof. We wanted to preserve the look of the porch, but change the Entry to be at grade. In this case the decision to enter at grade was also due to handicap accessibility issues.
This is what we plan to do on 62nd Street. The Delaney House there has a very nice porch, with simple columns and Victorian detailing at the eaves of a substantial looking roof. We wanted to preserve the look of the porch, but change the Entry to be at grade. In this case the decision to enter at grade was also due to handicap accessibility issues.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Entries / Exits Continued
Last blogpost I did not really address the rear exit issue. Again, the redundancy issue is dealt with very simply if the exit stair from the second floor can also be the connecting stair between floors. Of course, here you won't want anything real grand, like a fancy Atrium. However, you can get something that will bring light to both levels. Natural light is often considered the essence of good architecture. It is worth your time and money to facilitate as much natural light as you can from as many different sides as possible.
At the rear of the house it is less expensive to add on than at the front, so a two-story addition with stair is a great way to make the connection and get the exit at ground level.
If this doesn't work in your design, because of setbacks or a different stair location, you might just abandon the rear stair* and add a deck at the rear. If you want a stair, perhaps with a deck, remember that when you lift a house the stair becomes longer. This is usually not too big a deal at the rear, but a front stair increase by even a few risers can become ungainly and out of proportion for the front facade.
One of the ways to deal with this is again with the landscape. Raise the grade to reduce the number of risers you are adding, and thereby keep the stair within proper proportions. This can also help create the differential between two Entries on the same facade, making the one behind the raised grade, or berm, more secondary.
*Codes do not require more than one exit for a residence unless you have a third story.
At the rear of the house it is less expensive to add on than at the front, so a two-story addition with stair is a great way to make the connection and get the exit at ground level.
If this doesn't work in your design, because of setbacks or a different stair location, you might just abandon the rear stair* and add a deck at the rear. If you want a stair, perhaps with a deck, remember that when you lift a house the stair becomes longer. This is usually not too big a deal at the rear, but a front stair increase by even a few risers can become ungainly and out of proportion for the front facade.
One of the ways to deal with this is again with the landscape. Raise the grade to reduce the number of risers you are adding, and thereby keep the stair within proper proportions. This can also help create the differential between two Entries on the same facade, making the one behind the raised grade, or berm, more secondary.
*Codes do not require more than one exit for a residence unless you have a third story.
Friday, November 19, 2010
Entries and Exits
Entries and Exits, along with Stairs, are among the most important design decisions faced by people who want to build beneath their house, especially if the project includes raising the house above its existing level. The last blog-entry was about stair placement, which sometimes overlaps this concern, so I start with this.
If you end up having to place your new stairs near the front (or rear) of the house, the question of redundancy arises, since there are also Entry and Exit stairs in those locations. It often makes sense to enter the house at the ground floor level, as this redundancy is eliminated. However, entering a small landing area and immediately ascending a narrow stair is not a very gracious way to enter your abode. You'll be removing the front stair and thus changing the facade appreciably, so try to budget enough to re-work the whole facade, to create an Atrium!
This can be a very successful way to open up the house, so that one enters a two-story space immediately upon opening the front door. The result is a sense of flow and connection with all the other spaces of the house. One's psyche is actually pulled upward into the Main Space. This is the effect that is missing in most ground-level entries when the main (more public) spaces are upstairs, and often happens with a raised house of this type. This approach also successfully eliminates the next problem of concern - competing entries. With the atrium entry there is only one entrance and it tends to "speak for itself" but can even be made very grand if you like. (Be careful about making it too grand however, as it needs to fit with the rest of the house too!)
Competing Entries are jarring to the visitor and often create confusion as s/he walks up the nicely landscaped* front yard and tries to determine where to knock. If you have to create more than one entry, consider how to get one on the side, or even at the rear, of the house. This way each entry can be embellished without competing with the other(s). And do embellish them! Even if you are only adding a simple shed roof and a bench, the idea is to make the entry a welcoming place, a place to stop for a moment and make the transition from outside to inside while shaking out an umbrella or removing your hat. Avoid the door-on-the-wall look. We have all seen this and wondered.
If you just have absolutely no choice but to have two entries at the front of your house, embellish one more than the other. Make it clear which is a primary entrance and which a secondary one, like a craftsman's entrance. In fact, it is an interesting exercise to study craftsman entrances. Victorians often have very nice ones, embellished in a simpler way, but still having special details. An arbor & trellis in front of an indented, understated entry with a small bench can be really lovely without any sense of a jarring juxtaposition with the wide stair to the Victorian porch and all its incredible detail.
*One last thing for today's blog - Do not underestimate the benefit of good landscaping. Too often designers and homeowners both concentrate on the house and file the landscape concerns for another day. This is a mistake, because the budget is then exhausted on the changes to the house and all the curb-appeal is gone until there is enough money to address this most important aspect of your environment. Landscaping is an excellent way to steer a visitor toward a main entrance or a secondary one.
If you end up having to place your new stairs near the front (or rear) of the house, the question of redundancy arises, since there are also Entry and Exit stairs in those locations. It often makes sense to enter the house at the ground floor level, as this redundancy is eliminated. However, entering a small landing area and immediately ascending a narrow stair is not a very gracious way to enter your abode. You'll be removing the front stair and thus changing the facade appreciably, so try to budget enough to re-work the whole facade, to create an Atrium!
This can be a very successful way to open up the house, so that one enters a two-story space immediately upon opening the front door. The result is a sense of flow and connection with all the other spaces of the house. One's psyche is actually pulled upward into the Main Space. This is the effect that is missing in most ground-level entries when the main (more public) spaces are upstairs, and often happens with a raised house of this type. This approach also successfully eliminates the next problem of concern - competing entries. With the atrium entry there is only one entrance and it tends to "speak for itself" but can even be made very grand if you like. (Be careful about making it too grand however, as it needs to fit with the rest of the house too!)
Competing Entries are jarring to the visitor and often create confusion as s/he walks up the nicely landscaped* front yard and tries to determine where to knock. If you have to create more than one entry, consider how to get one on the side, or even at the rear, of the house. This way each entry can be embellished without competing with the other(s). And do embellish them! Even if you are only adding a simple shed roof and a bench, the idea is to make the entry a welcoming place, a place to stop for a moment and make the transition from outside to inside while shaking out an umbrella or removing your hat. Avoid the door-on-the-wall look. We have all seen this and wondered.
If you just have absolutely no choice but to have two entries at the front of your house, embellish one more than the other. Make it clear which is a primary entrance and which a secondary one, like a craftsman's entrance. In fact, it is an interesting exercise to study craftsman entrances. Victorians often have very nice ones, embellished in a simpler way, but still having special details. An arbor & trellis in front of an indented, understated entry with a small bench can be really lovely without any sense of a jarring juxtaposition with the wide stair to the Victorian porch and all its incredible detail.
*One last thing for today's blog - Do not underestimate the benefit of good landscaping. Too often designers and homeowners both concentrate on the house and file the landscape concerns for another day. This is a mistake, because the budget is then exhausted on the changes to the house and all the curb-appeal is gone until there is enough money to address this most important aspect of your environment. Landscaping is an excellent way to steer a visitor toward a main entrance or a secondary one.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
So you're considering building beneath. Where will the stairs go?
Many people have considered building beneath and discarded the idea, due to the complexities involved. Do not despair too early! Complexities with this approach to your house addition are like any complexities in life - it works best to organize them into digestible pieces and prioritize.
Setting aside structural considerations for the moment, I'd like to get into two of the most important design decisions: Entries and Stairs. You know, structural considerations are very important and must be on the table at all times, just like cost considerations. But it is a mistake, to my way of thinking, to let either of these drive the design. A structure can be devised for any design. So also a budget. This is not to say that these should be off the table, and somehow they'll get back on the table later. They just need not be the driving force that dictates the design.
That said, I am writing about Stairs in this post and will tackle Entries another day.
The location for an interior stair is very important, because you ideally do not want to devote too much space to what is termed "circulation space" among architects. This is space for getting around the house - it can be a stairwell, a hall, a foyer, a bridge, even some portion of a room. Each has a distinct character. For instance, if your stair is part of a larger space, like an Atrium or a Great Room, its characteristics are very different from a stairwell.
The goal then would be to locate your new stair as close to the center of things as possible. This means as close to the center of your existing floorplan as well as to the center of the new floorplan below. Let's say you want to keep your existing floorplan pretty much intact. And let's say you have a short hallway with some storage closets near the center. You might be able to place a U-shape stair in that location, landing near the center below. Of course, you'll probably want to find some other places to regain at least some of the storage space lost.
O.K. That works ... but what if you don't like the idea of putting the Bedrooms on the ground floor, with the Kitchen, Dining Room and Living Room upstairs? Well, you then have quite a bit more flexibility! I'd rather not go down that road just yet - Let's stick with the subject of stairs while considering these two options.
Design 1 (Bedrooms downstairs) raises the "public spaces" to the second floor level. If you are excavating and not raising the house more than a foot, this is probably not a problem. In fact, it is nicer to have the good natural light in the "public spaces". Excavation often necessitates small windows or window wells for the lower floor rooms, unless your house is on a sloping lot. The stair will be best in the least disruptive, most central location you can utilize, even if that means you devote a whole room to it. (Often, devoting a whole room to a stairwell is a wonderful solution, because of the openness and light.)
If you raise the house (still with Design 1) and, say you put in your ground floor space as a slab-on-grade, the indoor entertainment spaces become a lot further separated from the outdoor ones. This is a huge consideration for anyone in a benign climate, such as we have in California. Stair-wise this also brings in the issue of exterior stairs and how their re-design affects the look of the existing house. Rear stairs merely become ungainly, but front stairs can be sure disasters, design-wise. Imagine a 1-story Crafstman Bungalow with, say, five steps up to a raised floor about four feet above the grade. Now imagine the same front facade with 15 or 16 steps ... does not compute!
This is why so many raised houses don't seem to fit right, and certainly do not look like they were originally designed this way. A good architect will attempt to make the overall exterior design of a building, whether it is a new building or a renovation, look well integrated.
Alternatively (Design 2), you can convert your LR, DR, and Kitchen into Bedrooms, Studios, Hobby Rooms and the like, making the ground floor more open - the type of design many people like for today's lifesyles. An Eat-In Kitchen with large contiguous space as "Great Room" is usually easier to configure under the house than within the existing (removing walls from the original plan).
In this kind of design the use of a larger space (such as a small room, or the corner of a large room) for the stair can add a dramatic touch, especially when combined with large windows and skylights. The stair becomes a visual focal point of architectural interest and can single-handedly integrate all interior spaces. Most people have probably experienced this in a commercial space. It can also happen in a residence.
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
How is Building Beneath 'Green'?
One of my mottoes is that "Green is a discussion, not a fact." I have a little discussion going on in my head around many of the 'green' issues that come up, and will try and share some of it here. The main big question, of course, is "What defines 'green'?" Is it the type of material used? Is it the orientation to nature? Is it the amount of re-used and re-claimed material? Is it local (materials and services) vs. non-local? Is it the 'energy footprint'? How do we measure 'sustainability'? Many of these same questions have informed certification systems such as LEED, but I think it is important to ask them again and again.
This is especially important for small (read residential remodels) projects, since all small-project clients I have met are more interested in making informed choices than in certification.
So, I think about the typical remodeling client, who has the privilege of living in a detached SFR (single-family residence) and wants to add on. I have to let go of the discussion whether SFR living is sustainable or not, and get down to what kinds of additions which suit this person's needs will be.
Most people who live in detached housing value the small amount of land around their house, so the least invasive types of remodels are vertical additions (building above or building beneath). The literal footprint of the house remains essentially the same, so the local resources of the homeowner, such as vegetable gardens, chicken coops, dog runs, and ornamental gardens, are not reduced in size.
I believe this makes Building Beneath a very sustainable and 'green' alternative to other types of additions, such as rear-yard, side-yard, and front-yard additions.
This is especially important for small (read residential remodels) projects, since all small-project clients I have met are more interested in making informed choices than in certification.
So, I think about the typical remodeling client, who has the privilege of living in a detached SFR (single-family residence) and wants to add on. I have to let go of the discussion whether SFR living is sustainable or not, and get down to what kinds of additions which suit this person's needs will be.
Most people who live in detached housing value the small amount of land around their house, so the least invasive types of remodels are vertical additions (building above or building beneath). The literal footprint of the house remains essentially the same, so the local resources of the homeowner, such as vegetable gardens, chicken coops, dog runs, and ornamental gardens, are not reduced in size.
I believe this makes Building Beneath a very sustainable and 'green' alternative to other types of additions, such as rear-yard, side-yard, and front-yard additions.
Friday, September 3, 2010
Upcoming Class
FYI, I will be facilitating a class in "Building Beneath" on September 19th, 1-4 pm. This is through the BEC, 510-525-7610. An engineer and I will discuss the pros and cons of raising an existing house, or excavating below it, to develop new space, be it for a basic garage/workshop or for a whole new living space/unit. We expect to meet at a real construction site. The cost for this short class is only $45.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Introduction
Have you noticed that there are more and more houses being lifted, for the creation of an addition beneath an existing residence? At least in the SF Bay Area, there seem to be a lot more 'Building Beneath' projects than in previous decades. The number of projects that include building beneath, either through raising a house or excavating (or a combination of both), has been rising steadily, though nowadays everything seems slow. I teach a class on this way of adding to your house at the Building Education Center and am quite interested in this approach.
It seems one of the main reasons this has become more popular is that the structural code restrictions have been getting steadily more stringent in the Bay Area. Where once we might easily have put an addition on top of an existing house, to do so now requires much more, structurally. Many walls and most of the foundation below such an addition must be considered carefully and strengthened to suit. In contrast, if your addition is below the existing house, only the new walls have to meet code.
The corresponding foundation, of course, must also be strengthened, but often the entire foundation is in need of replacement anyway, and many times this is the original impetus that impels potential clients into my office to discuss such an addition in the first place. Some houses in the Bay Area are still on brick foundations! These have to be replaced even when building on top or converting an attic..
It seems one of the main reasons this has become more popular is that the structural code restrictions have been getting steadily more stringent in the Bay Area. Where once we might easily have put an addition on top of an existing house, to do so now requires much more, structurally. Many walls and most of the foundation below such an addition must be considered carefully and strengthened to suit. In contrast, if your addition is below the existing house, only the new walls have to meet code.
The corresponding foundation, of course, must also be strengthened, but often the entire foundation is in need of replacement anyway, and many times this is the original impetus that impels potential clients into my office to discuss such an addition in the first place. Some houses in the Bay Area are still on brick foundations! These have to be replaced even when building on top or converting an attic..
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)